Decyphering eyeglasses frames

Hi - I may order eyeglasses online. Found a frame and have my prescription (all except pupil distance, which I will get measured).

I am puzzled about frame sizes notations. I don't expect on-ground frame store staff to know or tell much about these questions:

1. Assuming the categories in 54-15-135, the only size of the frame I like, mean 54 width (what unit of measure? between what points?) 15 nose bridge (between where) and 135 temples - in plain language are 54 and 15 relatively wide and is 135 relatively deep? Are these custom or standard-sized frames, S-M-L-or odd-sized?

2. For indoor computer work use only, how important/necessary are UV and anti-glare if one sees no glare with bare eye? Glass versus plastic?

3. The prescription lists numbers for Distance, Reading, and Total Reading, with Total Reading circled as "Computer RX," which looks like a compromise between my "Distance" and "Reading." So I plan to order that.

Any info or other suggestions for online glasses ordering?

Thanks!
Sal

All I think I can comment on, out of all that is UV protection. It makes little difference indoors, but it is very, very cheap. In fact, I'm not at all sure you can buy prescription lenses without it.

Is anti-glare the same as polarization? If so, it adds too much to the price for my taste, and the coating is fairly delicate. Also, polarized lenses reveal a regular pattern to the window tint on the car. I would give the treatment a pass for indoor work. Now, if you were the mate on a charter fishing boat in South Florida, it would be a whole different story.

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Quote:

54-15-135, the only size of the frame I like

The unit of measure would be millimetres. Eye-Bridge-Side

Eye 54mm Bridge 15mm Side 135mm: a medium size frame, the Bridge size a little on the small side by 1-2mm (i.e. not much). Side 135mm is about average.

Eye = Horizontal measurement of the lens
Bridge = Horizontal measurement of the bridge (the part between the lenses)
Side = The lengh of the side (arm) of the frame

Other measures may be seen such as Width, Depth

Width = The overall width of the frame, including the hinges (where applicable)
Depth = Vertical measurement of the lens

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Excellent! Thanks for the responses. I went to the eyeglass store and they sure were cagey about sizes and sizing.

The manager had me put on glasses and look exactly above the top of his nose. He put dots where he was seeing my pupils to establish whether one lens would be high enough (top to bottom) for a progressive lens. I imagine that measuring between those dots would also reveal the pupil-to-pupil distance. I wonder if the real reason for p-2-p is to make that estimate alone; if it's millimeters, I can measure width at home with a friend.

Can we post business websites to this board--I assume not. Suffice to say I found a very inexpensive site with stylish frames--well under $100 complete for single, bifocal, or progressive, and 25% off second pair. For those prices I would get both computer and all-day glasses, assuming it might be better to have separate glasses rather than trying to adapt bi- or tri-focals to computer use.

Any comments on this?

And thanks again!

-Sal

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SallyMander wrote:

The manager had me put on glasses and look exactly above the top of his nose. He put dots where he was seeing my pupils to establish whether one lens would be high enough (top to bottom) for a progressive lens. I imagine that measuring between those dots would also reveal the pupil-to-pupil distance. I wonder if the real reason for p-2-p is to make that estimate alone; if it's millimeters, I can measure width at home with a friend.

I ended up with my very first pair of prescription glasses just a few months ago and went through much of the same stuff. I just went back to my optomitrist and they did all the measurements and wrote them on my prescription for me.

I guess the entire purpose in measuring all this stuff is to ensure that the actual prescription portion of the lens ends up centered over your actual pupil since the thickness and curvature of the lens varies across it's entire surface.

Most of the on-line stores had directions on how to make the measurements at home but that just seemed like an iffy proposition to me. 10 minutes and the optomitrist had it all written up for me. In the future I'll just ask them to do that for me on the 1st visit.

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Thanks! Yes, optometrists are probably the safest bet.

It sounds like you're pleased with what you got online.

I'm amazed at the price differences versus on-ground stores.

Sal

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Be careful -- price isn't everything!

It's important to get the prescription centered. I had a pair of cheaply-made glasses (not online) that were "within spec" but one was all the way this way and the other was all the way that way.

Every time I put them on I had to sait about fifteen seconds for my eyes to pull together.

Pain in the lower neck.

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I agree with those who say that it is much better to go to an optometrist. My husband bought a pair of glasses, and he complained that they weren't "right". When he looked a certain way, one eye saw in a blurry fashion. (They were progressive lenses) He went back to the place
where he bought them.

The optometrist discovered that although the glasses were "within specs", there was a tiny diffference that was making Mr. P. uncomfortable. The glasses were remade, and now they are fine. You are not going to get that type of service in one of those mass market el cheapo stores!

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I deliberately chose not to order progressive lenses on the net--stick to the simple lenses (computer and distance sunglasses) and see what I think of them and the frames.

I think the frame/eyeglass stores (including the optometrists) have such absurd markup that I am not interested in spending $500-$1000 for what I can get for less than $100. If I don't like them, there's little money lost. But I will get my eye doctor to measure the pupils.

Thanks!

Sal

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Decyphering eyeglass frames

Quote:

I would get both computer and all-day glasses, assuming it might be better to have separate glasses rather than trying to adapt bi- or tri-focals to computer use.

That's the smart way to go, definitely. I have glasses specifically for piano and computer, and progressives for general use. I strongly recommend progressives over bi-/tri-focals. The absence of the line(s) is much more comfortable. And things like stepping off curbs are much more secure with progressives.

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